CULTURE

Stellar service

Portobello // Zagorodny Prospekt 12A, Tel: 915 5501 // Open daily 11 a.m. to 11 p.m. // Menu in Russian, English and Italian // Dinner for two with alcohol: 2,690 rubles ($89)

By Ashley Blum

The St. Petersburg Times

With attentive wait staff, a relaxed atmosphere, simple yet chic d?cor and an extensive menu offering a variety of classic Italian dishes, the owners of the old-standing favorite Da Albertone on Millionaya Ulitsa seem to have come up with another winner with this new offering on Zagorodny Prospekt — dining at Portobello is a pleasant experience that will satisfy taste buds and surpass expectations of service.

An exotic mix of jazz and Italian music and the sound of two waterfall-like fountains form the only background noise. Though the walls are bare, the ceiling is decorated with small lamps that evoke a starry sky. Customers may recall Van Gogh’s “Starry Night” as they walk into the room. A fireplace in the back completes the romantic effect. Yet the decor is not overdone; the restaurant could also be used as a meeting place for a business lunch. The front room, in particular, is less lavishly decorated and could easily function as a business setting.

A smiling waitress speaking fluent English greeted us and pointed us to a wine list with a diverse array of options in terms of quality and price that can be purchased by the glass or bottle.

The menu at Portobello comprises traditional favorites and classics of Italian cuisine. Options include a variety of pasta and risotto dishes for about 400 rubles ($13), pizza (230 to 480 rubles, $7.60 to $16) and several fish, chicken and meat dishes including veal chops in a demi-glaze with porcini mushrooms (1,200 rubles, $40) and filet mignon (550 rubles, $18).

From a list of appetizers including plates of classic Italian cold cuts, cheese, and, for more adventurous eaters, tuna tartar with avocado, papaya and raspberry dressing, we chose to begin our meal with freshly baked focaccia bread sprinkled with Parmesan and oregano (70 rubles, $2.30), and Carpaccio of filet mignon with arugula, Parmesan and house vinaigrette (320 rubles. $10.60), accompanied by a glass of rose wine (250 rubles, $8.20). Our food arrived almost immediately.

The focaccia was superb: Warm, fresh, crispy on the outside and doughy in the middle, while the Carpaccio was fresh, tender and perfectly seasoned so as not to overwhelm the meat’s delicate flavor.

Proceeding briskly to the main dish, we selected pan-fried poussin with mushrooms, potatoes and pears (450 rubles, $15) and Agnello in 3 Modi, which comprised baked baby lamb chops, braised leg of lamb and roast leg of lamb with polenta and potatoes (730 rubles, $24).

The chicken was well prepared and well cooked, though simple and somewhat bland. The roasted pears that accompanied it were the most flavorsome part of the dish. The lamb, by contrast, was rich in both flavor and texture. The meat was tender and perfectly cooked, and each of the three components had a distinct sauce, seasoning, cut and texture, guaranteed to please those who have trouble deciding on a dish or who find themselves bored by the end of a meal.

Dessert offered a satisfying conclusion to an overall pleasant meal. The lemon panna cotta (160 rubles, $5.30) was satisfying and well made, though unremarkable, while chocolate lovers will relish the rich flavors of the warm molten chocolate cake (240 rubles, $8). The homemade ice cream that accompanies it offered a nice touch.

Although dishes are simple and the flavors predictable at Portobello, each was perfectly executed. What makes dining at the restaurant notable though is the personal attention from the wait staff and the relaxed, comfortable atmosphere they provide that is still far from being a given in St. Petersburg.

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