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Odessa Has Chutzpah

Published: September 19, 2012 (Issue # 1727)



  • Locals celebrating the citys Yumorina humor festival on April 1 around the famous Deribasovskaya Ulitsa in the heart of downtown Odessa. Odessa is renowned for its humor.
    Photo: ODESSA.UA

  • The monument to the citys defenders.
    Photo: TATYANA DENISOVA / FOR SPT

  • Built in 1810, Odessas oldest theater is a local architectural landmark.
    Photo: TATYANA DENISOVA / FOR SPT

  • The Potemkin Stairs, immortalized in the film The Battleship Potemkin.
    Photo: TATYANA DENISOVA / FOR SPT

ODESSA, Ukraine The air conditioner is broken, but youre very welcome tocome in, anattractive restaurant hostess says with acharming smile. Here inOdessa, you cannot feel let down.

Situated onthe Black Sea insouthern Ukraine, thenations fourth-largest city is as renowned forits warm water seaport as forits humor.

Native son Mikhail Zhvanetsky, abeloved satirist, once wrote: In Odessa they joke without end, but this is not humor, its acondition caused byheat andaudacity.

Ilya Ilf andYevgeny Petrov, who co-authored two ofthe Soviet Unions most-famous comedies, The Twelve Chairs andits sequel, The Little Golden Calf, grew up inOdessa. Many oftheir works poke fun atthe Soviet system.

Isaak Babel, heralded as one ofthe greatest writers ofRussian prose, was also born inOdessa. His collections ofshort stories, including theacclaimed Red Cavalry andTales ofOdessa, are considered masterpieces ofRussian literature.

Zhvanetsky, Ilf, Petrov andBabel were all members ofthe citys once-prominent Jewish population, which atthe turn ofthe 20th century made up nearly 40 percent ofthe populace.

Although pogroms andemigration have left theJewish community ashadow ofits former self, its influence remains clearly palpable inthe citys cultural identity.

After thedissolution ofthe Soviet Union, many Jews moved toNew Yorks Brighton Beach, settling inan area now called Little Odessa.

Russian director Leonid Gaidai noted thesimilarity inhis 1992 comedy, Weather Is Good onDeribasovskaya, It Rains Again onBrighton Beach. Thetitle refers toa pedestrian walkway incentral Odessa, named after Jose de Ribas, aSpanish nobleman who founded thecity while serving as anadmiral inthe Russian imperial navy.

Odessas population is predominantly Russian-speaking. Andwith adiverse demography including Crimean Tatars, Greeks, Romanians andTurks, many here consider themselves as being ofone ethnicity: Odessian.

Ina tribute tothe citys uniqueness, street vendors hawk Russian-Odessian dictionaries, featuring comical scenarios. Inone, arecently widowed Odessian inquires ata funeral home: How much would afuneral cost? Oh, andwithout abody?

Theideal place tolearn theOdessian language is ata cafe or aboard one ofthe old-fashioned trolleys that criss-cross thetown.

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ALL ABOUT TOWN

Thursday, July 24


Liliana Modiliani, a well-known Russian stylist, will talk about choosing clothes that fit during her lecture at 7 p.m. at the Pryamoy Efir art club, 13 Viborgskoe Shosse.



Friday, July 25


Discuss Russias economic and political prospects for 2014 during a Business Breakfast organized by SPIBA at 9.30 a.m. in the Bank Saint-Petersburg office at 64


Malookhtinsky Prospekt.


Start your weekend with adorable miniature pigs at the Squealing Pig festival at 7 p.m. this evening in the Karl & Friedrich restaurant, 15 Iozhnaya doroga, on Krestovsky Island.



Saturday, July 26


Hundreds of brand-new and retro cars, drag and drift shows, test drives and karting are planned for the Avtobum-2014 festival, which will take place in front of the RIO shopping center at 2 Fuchika Ulitsa.


Participants in todays SaniDay Summer competition will impress visitors with their hand-made, unusual and hilarious boats, which will race at the Igora Resort near the 54th kilometer on Priozerskoe Shosse.


Metro Family Day will include both serious lectures for adults and master-classes for children, making the event interesting for the whole family. To participate, come to Kirov Park on Yelagin Island.


Photography will be the focus of todays Photosubbota, which features lectures by famous photographers, meetings with photo schools and studio representatives, and participation in a photography competition. The event starts at noon at Petrokongress, 5 Lodeynopolskaya Ulitsa.


If you like cycling, make sure to visit the Za Velogorod Festival with its retro bike exhibition, market and live music. The second round of the Leningrad Criterium race will also take place during the event at Petrovsky Arsenal in Sestroretsk.



Sunday, July 27


Navy Day will be celebrated with a weapon and military transportation exhibition, self-defense master classes and concerts. The event starts at 1 p.m. in the 300th Anniversary Park of St. Petersburg.



Monday, July 28


Dont miss a chance to see the latest achievements in robotics during the RoboDom interactive show, exhibiting more than 150 robots. The show will be at BUM center, 22/2 Gzhatskaya Ulitsa, until Aug. 3. The entrance ticket costs 350 rubles ($10).



Tuesday, July 29


A video of a Queen concert from 1986 will be shown today at 8 p.m. in Yaschik, 50/13 Ligovsky Prospekt.



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