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Young Talent Dazzles at Aurora Fashion Week

Published: April 16, 2014 (Issue # 1806)



  • AFWR celebrated the 50th anniversary of Grigory Kozintsevs film Hamlet with a runway show of costumes.
    Photo: Alexander Popov / Aurora Fashion Week Russia

  • Artyom Shumov showed jumpsuits for men as well as more classic, mechanic-inspired daywear.
    Photo: Alexander Popov / Aurora Fashion Week Russia

  • Moscow-based Walk of Shame showed lots of skin on the runway in a shout-out to the 1990s.
    Photo: Alexander Popov / Aurora Fashion Week Russia

  • Osome 2some combined sheer diaphanous layers with loose-fitting woolen coats and slacks.
    Photo: Alexander Popov / Aurora Fashion Week Russia

  • Designer Julia Voitenko foregrounded structure, color and technique in her stunning collection for Esme Vie.
    Photo: Mary Tekushina

  • Severe and otherworldly, Lilia Kisselenkos collection brought interplanetary travel to mind.
    Photo: Alexander Popov / Aurora Fashion Week Russia

  • Young Russian designers strut down the runway after their presentation for Grazia.
    Photo: Alexander Popov / Aurora Fashion Week Russia

The latest incarnation of Aurora Fashion Week Russia, or AFWR, not only celebrated some of Russias most talented designers but also gave shoppers the chance to update their wardrobe with the newest styles during the White Nights sales and the Aurora Market, as well as the opportunity to refine their pallet at the Aurora Plate food festival.

The runway program, the heart and soul of AFWR, featured designs from 15 fashion brands, including Walk of Shame (Moscow), Esme Vie (Milan), Bevza (Kiev), Liza Odinokikh (St. Petersburg), Lilia Kisselenko (St. Petersburg), Artem Shumov (St. Petersburg), Osome 2some (St. Petersburg) as well as presentations of theatrical costumes from local productions of Hamlet and The Flying Dutchman.

Each collection presented by the assembled designers reflected not only the latest trends in the fashion industry but the designers uniqueness, their own definition of fashion and style, and their vision of the world.

The favorite of the first day of AFWR was Esme Vie, an Italian brand with Russian roots created in 2013 by Julia Voitenko. Despite her young age, she has become popular not only among fashion fans but important people in the fashion industry as well. Since winning Who is on Next?, a scouting project organized by Altaroma in collaboration with Vogue Italia, Voitenkos work has received praise from Franca Sozzani, the editor-in-chief of Vogue Italia, and legendary fashion critic Suzy Menkes. Her work has been compared to Dior and Givenchy. Esme Vie is a young brand centered on themes of elegance, structure and femininity.

At AFWR, Esme Vie unveiled its latest Autumn-Winter collection, using purple and scarlet colors as its inspiration alongside pale pinks and whites. Minimalism, clarity of forms, and purity of color were the defining themes of the Esme Vie show. Special attention was paid to the hairstyles and makeup of the models too. Done without forsaking the designers minimalist style, they were an example of natural beauty sweet, slightly pale skin, sensual red lips and straight hair.

Grazia fashion magazines show for the finalists of their young designer competition took place on the second day of the runway program. Ten young designers, selected by a jury chaired by Alyona Akhmadullina, Kira Plastinina, Natalya Walewska and Anastasia Romantsova, presented work based on two themes, The Great Gatsby and Black and White, to the St. Petersburg public. While the Black and White clothes represented minimalism and concision, coupled with graphic forms, The Gatsby clothes failed to create the sense of joyous chaos that could reasonably have been expected. The models strode briskly down the catwalk to the soundtrack of the Baz Luhrmann film of the same name to create the impression of a large party. A full range of colors, from rich emerald to pale pink, and a diversity of styles and countless accessories helped the young designers reflect the era of the lost generation.

Public reaction was positive to the well-known local brands Liza Odinokikh, Osome2some and Artem Shumov. Moscow-based Walk of Shame also received favorable reviews and their show drew fashionistas from Moscow such as Natalya Goldenberg, Maria Fedorova, Vitaly Kozak and Oksana On.

AFWRs attraction for young designers was reflected both by the fashion industry stalwarts that attended as well as the positive reaction of attendees to the newest available styles. The biannual event is helping establish St. Petersburg as another city on the fashion circuit. Its still early days, but if the presentations at the Academy of Arts are anything to go by, Petersburg may soon be hosting more and more similar events.





 


ALL ABOUT TOWN

Wednesday, Oct. 1


The St. Petersburg International Innovation Forum 2014 kicks off today at Lenexpo, where it will be presenting the latest and greatest ideas until Oct. 3. Focusing on economic development and the decisions and measures necessary to encourage development in Russias most important industries, the event is a possibility to discuss the innovations currently available in a variety of fields.


Representatives of the Russian and international media industries arrive in St. Petersburg for the first ever International Media Forum being hosted by the city until Oct. 10. With a variety of events on tap, including workshops, lectures and film screenings, the event plans to reemphasize the citys reputation as the countrys culture capital and as an emerging market and location for the visual arts.



Thursday, Oct. 2


The celebration of the bicentennial of the birth of Mikhail Lermontov continues with todays free exhibition in the citys Lermontov Library at 19 Liteiny Prospekt. Titled Under the Rustling Wings, the temporary exhibition will feature the costumes and scenery used in the 1917 production of Lermontovs play The Masquerade, which he wrote in 1835 when he was only 21 years old.



Friday, Oct. 3


Learn more about how to manage and evaluate employee performance during SPIBAs Human Resources Committee meeting this morning on Employee Assessment: Global and Local Trends. Starting at 9:30 a.m., the discussion will touch on such topics as the partnership between HR and business, reliable assessment strategies and more, with Tatiana Andrianova, the head of the SHL Russia and CIS branch in St. Petersburg, as the featured guest. Confirm your participation by Oct. 2 by emailing office@spiba.ru or calling 325 9091.


AmChams Procurement Committee Meeting is at 9 a.m. this morning in their office in the New St. Isaac Office Center on Ulitsa Yakubovicha.



Saturday, Oct. 4


Wine and cheese lovers will get their chance to revel during Scandinavia Country Club and Spas Wine Market Weekend. Going on today and tomorrow, wining diners can listen to live music, take part in culinary classes and, of course, sample a variety of fine wines from around the world. The cost of admission is 400 rubles ($10.30) for adults and 200 rubles ($5.15) for children.



Sunday, Oct. 5


Look for the latest fall fashions at the Autumn Market today in Freedom Anticafe at 7 Kazanskaya Ulitsa. The minimarket plans to offer clothes more flattering than the puffy jackets that are a staple of the citys cold-weather fashion, while offering the same amount of protection from the biting winds blowing off of the Baltic.



Monday, Oct. 6


SKA St. Petersburg, the citys KHL affiliate, welcomes Slovakian club HC Slovan in a match-up tonight at the Ice Palace near the Prospekt Bolshevikov metro station. The puck drops at 7:30 p.m. and tickets can be purchased on the clubs website or in person at either the arenas box office or the clubs merchandise store on Nevsky Prospekt.



Tuesday, Oct. 7


Learn more about Russias energy industry at the St. Petersburg Energy Forum that begins today and runs through Oct. 10. Attracting industry experts and political and business representatives, the forum plans to welcome more than 350 plus companies and their representatives to discuss the future of Russias largest economic sector.



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