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Young Talent Dazzles at Aurora Fashion Week

Published: April 16, 2014 (Issue # 1806)



  • AFWR celebrated the 50th anniversary of Grigory Kozintsevs film Hamlet with a runway show of costumes.
    Photo: Alexander Popov / Aurora Fashion Week Russia

  • Artyom Shumov showed jumpsuits for men as well as more classic, mechanic-inspired daywear.
    Photo: Alexander Popov / Aurora Fashion Week Russia

  • Moscow-based Walk of Shame showed lots of skin on the runway in a shout-out to the 1990s.
    Photo: Alexander Popov / Aurora Fashion Week Russia

  • Osome 2some combined sheer diaphanous layers with loose-fitting woolen coats and slacks.
    Photo: Alexander Popov / Aurora Fashion Week Russia

  • Designer Julia Voitenko foregrounded structure, color and technique in her stunning collection for Esme Vie.
    Photo: Mary Tekushina

  • Severe and otherworldly, Lilia Kisselenkos collection brought interplanetary travel to mind.
    Photo: Alexander Popov / Aurora Fashion Week Russia

  • Young Russian designers strut down the runway after their presentation for Grazia.
    Photo: Alexander Popov / Aurora Fashion Week Russia

The latest incarnation of Aurora Fashion Week Russia, or AFWR, not only celebrated some of Russias most talented designers but also gave shoppers the chance to update their wardrobe with the newest styles during the White Nights sales and the Aurora Market, as well as the opportunity to refine their pallet at the Aurora Plate food festival.

The runway program, the heart and soul of AFWR, featured designs from 15 fashion brands, including Walk of Shame (Moscow), Esme Vie (Milan), Bevza (Kiev), Liza Odinokikh (St. Petersburg), Lilia Kisselenko (St. Petersburg), Artem Shumov (St. Petersburg), Osome 2some (St. Petersburg) as well as presentations of theatrical costumes from local productions of Hamlet and The Flying Dutchman.

Each collection presented by the assembled designers reflected not only the latest trends in the fashion industry but the designers uniqueness, their own definition of fashion and style, and their vision of the world.

The favorite of the first day of AFWR was Esme Vie, an Italian brand with Russian roots created in 2013 by Julia Voitenko. Despite her young age, she has become popular not only among fashion fans but important people in the fashion industry as well. Since winning Who is on Next?, a scouting project organized by Altaroma in collaboration with Vogue Italia, Voitenkos work has received praise from Franca Sozzani, the editor-in-chief of Vogue Italia, and legendary fashion critic Suzy Menkes. Her work has been compared to Dior and Givenchy. Esme Vie is a young brand centered on themes of elegance, structure and femininity.

At AFWR, Esme Vie unveiled its latest Autumn-Winter collection, using purple and scarlet colors as its inspiration alongside pale pinks and whites. Minimalism, clarity of forms, and purity of color were the defining themes of the Esme Vie show. Special attention was paid to the hairstyles and makeup of the models too. Done without forsaking the designers minimalist style, they were an example of natural beauty sweet, slightly pale skin, sensual red lips and straight hair.

Grazia fashion magazines show for the finalists of their young designer competition took place on the second day of the runway program. Ten young designers, selected by a jury chaired by Alyona Akhmadullina, Kira Plastinina, Natalya Walewska and Anastasia Romantsova, presented work based on two themes, The Great Gatsby and Black and White, to the St. Petersburg public. While the Black and White clothes represented minimalism and concision, coupled with graphic forms, The Gatsby clothes failed to create the sense of joyous chaos that could reasonably have been expected. The models strode briskly down the catwalk to the soundtrack of the Baz Luhrmann film of the same name to create the impression of a large party. A full range of colors, from rich emerald to pale pink, and a diversity of styles and countless accessories helped the young designers reflect the era of the lost generation.

Public reaction was positive to the well-known local brands Liza Odinokikh, Osome2some and Artem Shumov. Moscow-based Walk of Shame also received favorable reviews and their show drew fashionistas from Moscow such as Natalya Goldenberg, Maria Fedorova, Vitaly Kozak and Oksana On.

AFWRs attraction for young designers was reflected both by the fashion industry stalwarts that attended as well as the positive reaction of attendees to the newest available styles. The biannual event is helping establish St. Petersburg as another city on the fashion circuit. Its still early days, but if the presentations at the Academy of Arts are anything to go by, Petersburg may soon be hosting more and more similar events.





 


ALL ABOUT TOWN

Saturday, Aug. 23


Uppsala Park plays host to Fairy Noon today, a performance of five separate fairy tales ranging from folk classics to more haunting selections. There will be three different renditions of the tales throughout the day and tickets start at 500 rubles ($13.80) for adults and 300 rubles ($8.30) for children.


Classic Finnish cartoon characters the Moomins expect to receive a warm welcome from Russian fans during todays Moomin Festival at the Pearl Plaza Shopping Center at 51 Petergofskoye Shosse. Become a kid again or introduce a new generation to the beloved creation of Finnish writer Tove Jansson.



Sunday, Aug. 24


The tortured genius of Dutch master Vincent van Gogh gets his day in the centers Konnushnaya Ploschad during Make Art Like Van Gogh, a daylong celebration of the artist that will allow amateur artists to try and replicate the work that made the famed painter world-renowned.


Experience a variety of dances highlighting the diversity of the world around as at the final day of the Ethno-Dance International Dance Festival that has been at the St. Petersburg Humanitarian University of Trade Unions this past week. Tonights performance will feature Egyptian dancers accompanied by local orchestras.



Monday, Aug. 25


Today kicks off the Elena Obraztsovoy International Competition for Young Vocalists in the large hall of the Shostakovich Philharmonic. Talented youngsters will showcase their range over the next six days before a winner is chosen on Aug. 30.



Tuesday, Aug. 26


Love movies but hate all those words? Then check out Rodina Cinema Centers Factor of Consensus film forum this evening. Silent movie classics from the beginning of the 20th century will be screened and accompanied by a pianist, who will provide the soundtrack for the ongoing action. The screenings begin at 7 p.m. Check Rodinas website for more details.



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